Making a Kegulator from an Old
Refrigerator.
Instructions and procedures for installing an
Economy,
Standard or
Deluxe refrigerator conversion kit into a standard
refrigerator to make the perfect home or emergency bar
kegger.
If you are using an upright freezer you will need our
9025 thermostat
Step 1: Get the Fridge.
Use or purchase a working refrigerator. You can find
them at a garage or yard sale for about $30.00 to
$50.00. We selected a bigger 18 cubic foot (cf) model so
we can also fit our ½ Keg along with some top shelves
remaining for cans and goodies.
Remember the size you need is not in cf you must have
the inches. Basic ½ Kegs require 16.5" wide by 16.5"
deep by 30" height for easy operation. With the Low Boy
couplers you can reduce this height requirement by about
5". The installation here is with a 20 pound gas
cylinder but 5 pound cylinder is more than adequate for
several kegs of beer.
Place the fridge where you want your beer. Here it is in
the kitchen where it will be very handy.
Hint: Be sure it works before you hall it home.

Step 2: Round-up the tools.
We suggest at least the following tools:
- An electric drill
- A 1" hole saw
- A combo screw driver
- A 1/8" drill bit
- An optional 2 to 3 inch hole saw (not shown)
- An optional long nose pliers or strong fingers
- An optional pair of rubber gloves

Step 3: Preparation for start.
Remove all the shelving from the fridge and clean it up
using a good disinfectant like bleach. Most old fridges
are pretty foul inside and that will mess up the rubber
hoses if not cleaned.

Step 4: Leveling the deck.
Using old lumber scraps make the floor of the fridge
level. After this is done cover with some 5/8" plywood
or other suitable material for the keg and CO2
cylinder to set on. Screw it in place so it will not
move.

Step 5: Drilling 1" faucet shank hole.
Mark off the horizontal center of the door and locate a
good spot on the back of the door to put the hole
through. After locating the spot measure where it is
from the top of the door and transfer that vertical drop
to the front of the door where the center of the door
mark is located. Drill through here with the 1" hole
saw.

Step 6: Fitting the shank.
Insert the shank into the shank hole with the flange
against the outside surface of the door and the nut
securely against the inside surface of the outside door
wall. See how the inside plastic was cut away with a 3"
hole saw to allow for the nut to seat against the inner
surface of the outside wall.
Here we show a nipple shank but sometimes our better
kits are supplied with a bore shank along with an extra
beer nut, tail piece and beer washer for use with
multiple size hoses.

Step 7: Make a template.
If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a
drip tray and this step will apply.
Using the drip tray mounting bracket or a ruler mark out
the mounting holes. Shown here are the dimensions for
the black plastic drip tray. With the holes marked out
mark the center and transfer the hole marks to the front
of the fridge about 11 inches from the bottom of the
shank hole's bottom edge. Be sure it is straight and
level and in the horizontal center of the door.

Step 8: Drill drip tray holes.
If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a
drip tray and this step will apply.
Using the marks you transferred to the door from the
template, drill the two holes to mount the drip tray to
the door. After the holes are drilled insert the screws
and turn them in while the bracket is not there to get
them started and then remove them.

Step 9: Mount the bracket.
If you have a Standard or deluxe kit it will come with a
drip tray and this step will apply.
Mount the bracket to the door with the screws provided
and tighten them.

Step 10: Connect the hoses.
Here is a picture of the hoses mounted on the keg
coupler and the regulator. Use the clamps provided and
secure them using a slotted screwdriver. Here the gas
cylinder is mounted in the fridge to protect the
regulator from damage. It is a good idea to secure the
cylinder to the fridge wall with wire or chain. I always
mount the cylinder inside the fridge to protect the
gauges and settings from damage but it will work outside
as well. Just be sure you place the gas hose hole in a
place which will not damage the refrigerator.
The regulator shown here is for the deluxe kit. Standard
kits get a single gauge regulator. The cylinder should
be opened and the low pressure gauge set to read 12 psi.
The regulator shutoff is in the off position in this
picture.

Step 11: Final check.
Don't forget to connect the beer line to the shank
nipple or the hose tail piece mounted to the shank
mounted thru the door. Be sure the lines do not sag but
are coiled on top of the keg as best you can. Check all
clamps for tightness.

Step 12: Get ready to pour.
With the beer keg full, the regulator shutoff turned on
(inline with the hose), the regulator low pressure gauge
reading 12 psi, and the keg coupler lever in the down
position you should be ready to pour your first beer.

Step 13: Now What.
A kegger must be kept clean in order for it to serve up
fresh beer. For this you will need a system to clean it.
We recommend the
5320 direct draw kit for this very important &
necessary job. This kit is supplied with all our deluxe
conversion kits. Never clean a beer system with anything
but B*L*C* or water if you want to keep your system up
to your high standards of fresh, clean brew.
Clean your kegger every week with water and faucet brush
and once each keg or month, whichever comes first with
real B*L*C*.
After chemical cleaning be sure to lubricate you coupler
seals with Brewery
Approved Lube.
We are not responsible for typographical errors
in prices or descriptions. Pictures may not correctly
represent color or form. Absolutely no returns after 30
days for any reason. Most items carry a 1 year
manufacturers warrantee. Prices may change without
notice due to economic conditions. You must be over 18
years of age to order from the KegMan.Absolutely no
returns after 30 days for any reason. Shipping and
handling charges are never refundable.
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